,The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel evaluated the safety of six Salix alba (white willow)–derived ingredients used in cosmetics, including bark extract, bark powder, bark water, whole-plant extract, flower extract, and leaf extract. These botanicals function primarily as skin-conditioning, soothing, and exfoliating agents due to naturally occurring salicylates such as salicin, along with flavonoids, tannins, and phenolic acids that contribute antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. Industry data indicate that willow bark extract is the most commonly used ingredient, typically formulated at concentrations up to 0.5% in leave-on and rinse-off products. Toxicological studies demonstrate low acute and repeated-dose systemic toxicity, with high oral LD50 values and no significant adverse effects in subchronic studies. Genotoxicity testing was largely negative, though some in vitro assays showed effects at high, non-cosmetic exposure levels. Dermal irritation and sensitization studies suggest minimal risk under normal use conditions, and phototoxicity was not observed.
Consult
